By Scott Edwards

I must preface this by saying that we were both very hungry. So, when the basket of complimentary tortilla chips and three small dishes of fresh salsa were placed in front of us, they became the focus of our world.

It wasn’t until we — mainly I — realized that we — mainly I — were picking at crumbs at the bottom of the basket that I sat back in my chair and took notice of the environment. Starting with the wall across from us, I scanned the room in a counter-clockwise motion. Immediately, I sensed a theme. “So, buho,” I said, “must mean owl.” The creature sat above and around us in several forms, from paintings to kitschy crafts.

Overzealous theme-oriented decorating aside, Buho’s, a Mexican restaurant that opened in late winter in Lambertville, NJ, is as authentic an experience as one will find outside of the cuisine’s native country.

We visited twice over the span of five days, partially, I think, because we were so surprised with the initial result. It was, honestly, a last minute idea. Our sudden hunger pangs were met with the realization that it was 8 p.m. Saturday. Buho’s was on our radar, so we took a chance.

I love Mexican food, but the common-sense saying, “Don’t shop for groceries on an empty stomach,” should also apply to eating Mexican. The dishes tend to be quite large — as they are here — and it isn’t exactly light fare. Nonetheless, we dove into the expansive menu headfirst, ordering, for starters, the Buho Mixto, an incredible platter comprised of taquitos, chalupas, tamales and quesadillas. Between this and the chips, we were full. But it was too late to turn back.

Our entrees arrived as soon as the plate was cleared — mainly by me again. She opted for the beautifully made homemade pork carnitas while I set my sights on what appeared to be the biggest item on the list of entrees: the Parrillada, a larger-than-life platter of grilled chicken, steak, chorizo and shrimp topped with grilled green jalapenos, onion, tomato and guacamole. Needless to say, we had leftovers.

Our next time through, I wanted to make sure to cover all of the portions of the menu that I neglected the first time around — nachos, fajitas, gorditas, tostadas, tortas, enchiladas, antojitos, ensaladas, caldos (soups) and seafood. I made the mistake of starting with the Buho Mixto again. I was full by the time the entrée arrived. But I persevered, and was grateful for it in the end because it was perfection.

The Mixta Tostadas are two flat taco shells piled high with a raw combination of fish, shrimp, octopus, tomato, onion and cilantro. It is a dish that I plan to eat at least once a month for the rest of my life. Every ingredient was at the peak of freshness and almost entirely unadulterated. The tostada was light and flaky, providing a subtle foundation.
The only catch to eating at Buho’s is knowing how to do so in moderation. Which I clearly do not.

Buho’s, 13 Klines Court, Lambertville, NJ; 609-397-6767. 10 a.m. to 10 p.m., Monday through Friday; 10 a.m. to 11 p.m., Friday and Saturday; 9 a.m. to 10 p.m., Sunday. BYOB.