A warm environment provides a perfect backdrop for updated and sophisticated impressions of classic American fare.
By Marcy Silberman

As soon as you drive up to the Yardley Inn, with its charming stone façade, innate historic presence and views of the Delaware River, you instantly feel at home. Once inside, that intimate feeling only gets better — and delicious.

Upon entering the cozy foyer, we were greeted by a grinning host and quickly ushered off to our table for two overlooking the water. Clean white tablecloths, soft candlelight and cushy suede chairs trimmed with mahogany-colored leather outfitted the dining room, which, at 8 p.m. on a Saturday, was bustling.

Immediately, our water glasses were filled to the brim, and our drink order — a glass of 2006 Livio Felluga Pinot Grigio and 2005 Montoya Pinot Noir — was taken. A basket of warm sourdough bread specked with fragrant rosemary and sesame flatbread was set on the table alongside whipped, room-temperature butter. The service throughout our dinner was attentive and knowledgeable.

Portion control
The inn’s menu is comprised of contemporary American cuisine that merges classic dishes with modern twists, providing delightfully surprising results.

With a keen awareness of portion size, many of the dishes are available as small or large plates, a growing trend among both fine dining and casual restaurants in the Greater Bucks region. This philosophy is especially evident in the inn’s “Tiers of Taste,” a popular and price-savvy option that allows diners to choose three appetizers (each portioned for two) for $16. Served in a smart, three-tiered tea tray, it makes for a beautifully minimal presentation that is also easy to access.

The highlight of our tier selections was perfectly cooked scallops set on a creamy bed of pureed white beans with herbs and topped with a paper-thin slice of crispy salami. Describing it as delicious does not do this perfect bite an ounce of justice. The next plate held light and flaky spring rolls filled with tender beef, which were served with an Asian-inspired dipping sauce.

Our expectations sent soaring by the first two dishes, we were a bit disappointed by the third, miniature crab cakes, which had an unpleasant, mushy texture, were severely undercooked and lacked any hint of crunchiness from a good pan sear. Shaved slices of cucumber lightly dressed in vinaigrette were plated alongside a mundane mustard-mayonnaise sauce.

Putting the crab cakes behind us, we moved on to the next course. The crab bisque caught our eye upon the initial inspection of the menu and, thankfully, completely satisfied our short-lived craving. Much like a Manhattan chowder broth, the rich stock was spicy and full of flavor — and overflowing with colossal lumps of crabmeat. A dollop of thick cream swam in the middle of the shallow bowl that, once stirred in, created a beautiful salmon hue.

Not to be trumped, and every bit as scrumptious, was a clean, crisp and palette-cleansing arugula salad accented with blood orange segments, pecorino cheese and a light and tangy vinaigrette.

Delightfully indulgent
For our entrées, we heeded our waiter’s advice and went with a pair of what he proclaimed to be the restaurant’s signature dishes. One was a sinfully tasty and crispy duck breast that was enhanced by a hint of orange and accompanied by nutmeg-scented sautéed spinach that melted in our mouths. Four petite rounds of parmesan gnocchi provided a simple and savory side.

But, in my opinion — and to my stomach’s delight — the spinach and ricotta gnudi, a version of gnocchi sans the potato, was the hit of the evening. Without that heavy and easily overwhelming starch, the airy puffs were literally like little edible pillows. Smoked prosciutto, chards of sage, a delicately aromatic sauce and a liberal sprinkling of pungent caciovavallo cheese were the perfect accoutrements to this wildly successful dish.

Although we were as full as could be, it was nearly impossible to end a substantial meal like this without a bit of sugar to balance it all out. In this case, simple seemed to be the way to go.

Dense and decadent are both perfect descriptions of the slice of chocolate polenta we shared for our sweet treat. Much like fudge in its consistency and texture, during my first taste, I was pleasantly surprised by a crunchy bite that instantly rang true as an Oreo cookie, which it was, in the form of a crust. Simply garnished with a heaping spoonful of whipped sweet cream and chocolate and raspberry sauces, it was a fitting end to an enriching meal that offered many rewards for a few minimal risks.

Yardley Inn Restaurant and Bar, 82 East Afton Avenue, Yardley. Hours: Lunch, 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m., daily; “Lite Lunch,” after 2:30 p.m., daily; dinner, 5:15 p.m. to 10 p.m., Monday through Thursday, 5:15 p.m. to 10:30 p.m., Friday and Saturday, 4:30 p.m. to 9 p.m., Sunday; brunch, 11 a.m. to 3 p.m., Sunday. 215-493-3800; www.yardleyinn.com