At Lahaska’s Villaggio, “authentic” and “Italian cuisine” are not mutually exclusive terms.

By Marcy Silberman

Photography by Dan Engongoro

Let’s face it. When it comes to Italian restaurants, authenticity is hard to come by. From chicken parmigiana to osso buco, many local menus represent increasingly American takes on once proud recipes. But there’s hope. I discovered a small, yet inviting BYOB in the heart of Bucks County that is a surefire answer to your pasta, veal and mozzarella cravings.

Villaggio Italian Restaurant, located in Penn’s Purchase, Lahaska, is the perfect spot to hit up after a long (and successful) day of shopping at the shi-shi Peddler’s Village right across the street and the surrounding outlets. The exterior is innocuous, but when you walk in the front door and take in the expansive dining room and open kitchen that looms nearby, your appetite will quickly overtake your shopping high. 

Villaggio reads like a slightly more upscale trattoria. With the intoxicating smell of fried cheese, fresh meats and sizzling seafood wafting through the air at all times, the mind effortlessly lifts from the congestion of this particular stretch of Route 202 and promptly deposits one amid the rolling hills of Tuscany.

Fresh from the start
It’s no secret that when eating in Italy, the diner is treated as king — or queen. As soon as you settle into the table, you are served not just freshly baked bread but a dish of bold antipasti meant to entice your stomach for the meal ahead. The tradition is strictly adhered to at Villaggio. 

A basket of fresh Italian bread, as light as air, was kicked up a notch with a light toast on the grill that evoked a wonderful hint of smokiness. Our waiter soon followed with a salad-size plate of chilled grilled vegetables – zucchini, yellow squash and spicy green peppers – alongside a small dish of extra virgin olive oil garnished with crushed red pepper flakes. Thankfully, before we dug in, my companion and I were methodically instructed to take a chunk of the warm bread, sprinkle on a bit of the peppered olive oil and then top it with the vegetables. Simply spectacular.

Calamari crazy
The well-edited menu is filled with lots of familiar ingredients, but I knew the dishes they comprised, from the simple yet wildly flavorful opening course, would be a departure. My palate instantly piqued when considering the possibilities. Between the baked mozzarella wedges swimming in a light tomato sauce garnished with capers and parmesan cheese and the asparagus rollatini, I could have stopped cold at the appetizers.

With both of us self-described calamari freaks, the thought of tender sea creature batter-dipped and fried to near-golden perfection felt irresistible. We also opted for one of the evening’s specials: crisp polenta cakes topped with a medley of spring vegetables and surrounded by a light, broth-like sauce. 

The calamari – accompanied by a shallow bowl of homemade marinara that was sweet and full of fresh tomato flavor – satisfied our surging appetites, even though the limp appearance and texture did absolutely no justice to the fresh flavor. 

The special was comprised of two thick slabs of herbed polenta, sautéed to a crisp delight, but still creamy in the center. They were perfectly complemented by elongated julienne strips of zucchini, carrots and peppers, as well as grape tomatoes and a smooth —textured and tasting — sauce.

Simple and classic
Before biting into the main course, my companion and I decided to veer a bit off-course and sample one of the 15 housemade pastas. Our waiter, who was exceptionally attentive and full of personality throughout our dinner, had difficulty steering us toward any one.

From Ravioli al Pomodoro (cheese ravioli in a traditional tomato sauce) and Pappardella Bolognese (a robust meat sauce) to Penne Arrabbiata (an aromatic concoction of garlic, hot peppers, tomatoes and basil with a splash of white wine and marinara), a verdict was nearly impossible. My mother is prone to saying, “Simple and classic is best,” so Gnocchi Sorrento – pillowy bites of potato and flower pasta mixed with pomodoro and topped with fresh mozzarella – won out, and rightfully so, it turned out.

Contrasting cuisine
By the time our main courses arrived, the two of us were already quite full, though it required minimal effort to muster an appetite for what came out of the open-air kitchen we were gazing into all night. With that said, one of the things I love most about Villaggio is its attention to portion size, and accordingly, the prices. The entire dinner menu, including the antipasti, is available as one- and two-person servings, which is a welcome option. (The lunch menu is single servings only.)

We went for opposite ends of the spectrum with our entrees. My palate craved something on the lighter side, which prompted my selection of the Zuppa Di Pesce. The generous bowl was filled to the brim with a smattering of seafood delicacies, including shrimp, clams, calamari and mussels, all swimming in a light marinara sauce and topped with crispy croutons. A piece of grilled salmon was artfully laid across, adding a hearty bite to the otherwise light stew. 

My companion had his sights set on veal from our entry, and there were plenty of variations to choose from. All of the classic dishes, including Milanese, Francese and Marsala, found a place on the menu. He opted for the Saltimbocca. A thick cut of the tender chop was sautéed and topped with salty prosciutto, spinach, fontina cheese and sage and doused with a white wine reduction. Though a bit rich for my taste, it was an inspired, authentic interpretation.

Sweet, savory, store-bought
When the waiter brought over the dessert menu, a laminated booklet featuring what looked like magazine photographs of intricate desserts, it was clear that homemade did not extend to this portion of the menu. Nonetheless, putting all assumptions aside, we picked two: a peanut butter shell filled with vanilla ice cream and topped with hot fudge and whipped cream along with a chilled ice cream chocolate truffle drizzled with the same chocolate sauce and cream. 

They were rather savory, yet clearly manufactured outside of the restaurant. But who among us is ever in a position to deny the power of thick ice cream and robust bites of chocolate and peanut butter? Certainly not us.
Villaggio Italian Restaurant, Penn’s Purchase, 5861 York Road, Lahaska. Lunch and dinner served. BYOB. Reservations accepted. 215-794-2777; www.villaggioitalianrestuarant.com.