DEMYSTIFYING THE BESPOKE SUIT

No longer cost-prohibitive, custom suits are for the man looking to make a statement.

Some of my most vivid childhood memories include taking the train into Philadelphia with my mom, brother and sister to meet my dad for lunch. I was so impressed with the formality of it all — the corner office with the breathtaking views, the secretary, my father in a suit. 

The sight of my dad holding court in his office cast him in a completely different light.

Many years later, when I needed a suit for my high school senior pictures, my parents took me to a nearby Men’s Warehouse. I understood then that suits could be quite expensive. The one I got was not. But I couldn’t tell the difference.

I held onto that suit through college and the early portion of my professional life, growing increasingly aware of two facts: Four-button suits were marginally trendy in the mid-nineties, which made my five-button suit the equivalent of a fashion mullet — questionably stylish even at its supposed height. And, the fabric, a cotton-polyester-rayon blend, was likely never meant to last this long.

Every guy eventually reaches that moment where he realizes it’s time to begin dressing his age. No greater statement to this effect can be made than through a finely crafted suit. And it’s not a once-in-a-lifetime occurrence. Your style and tastes evolve — as does your income level — with maturity, which means that the suits you’re wearing at 35 should not be the same ones you’re wearing at 45 and so on.

A relatively new advantage to making sure that our suits portray the proper image is the increasing accessibility of bespoke clothing. Once restricted to discriminating dandies with piles of money at their disposal, bespoke (custom) clothing, specifically suits, is beginning to reach the masses, largely because we live in an overcrowded world where uniqueness is the most coveted quality among the fashion savvy.

Stephen Seo, who opened his self-named fashion boutique in Princeton’s Palmer Square last November, and Frank Ventresca, a tailor with over 30 years of experience who owns the Doylestown fine clothing store Ventresca Ltd. with brother Len, share their insight in an effort to demystify the bespoke suit.

Trust your tailor

It’s easy to get lost in the details — peak or notch lapel? Single or double vent? One button or two? So be clear in what you’re looking for — where you plan to wear your suit, if you have any special needs. No detail is insignificant and virtually any request can be accommodated.

Gravitate toward a tailor who best aligns with the style of suit you desire. Seo, who describes his look as “one-of-a-kind modern sophistication,” is known for not-so-subtle flourishes, such as buttonholes stitched with colorful thread and lining that sports bold designs, and contemporary styles. Ventresca appreciates the timeless quality of classic Italian- and British-style suits, the sort that are the staples of recent eras and look positively fashionable in any setting.

The process

Once you and your tailor become fast friends, let the intimate measuring begin. By this point, definite ideas should be formed on the style and fit of the suit. On the heels of those decisions comes the selection of the fabric. This is a crucial point because costs could easily skyrocket from here. It’s not as simple as picking cotton or wool. As with any garment, mass-produced or custom-made, there’s great variation in the type and quality.

Seo takes about 20 measurements along with assorted notes on “figuration” details. From there, a personal pattern is hand-drafted and cut from scratch. 

Using that pattern, the fabrics for the suit and lining are cut and the tailor begins to assemble the garment.

The commitment

After that initial fitting, expect to be called back in about four to five weeks for another. That’s about how long both Seo and Ventresca say they take to create a bespoke suit, or about 40 to 50 hours. The suit, Ventresca says, should be ready seven to 10 days later. When you arrive to pick it up, insist on trying it on again — if the tailor does not do so himself.

The price range is vast when it comes to bespoke suits. As mentioned, the fabric is a big deciding factor. Yes, bespoke is more affordable than ever before, but you should still expect to drop at least a couple grand. Seo’s bespoke suits start at around $1,400, Ventresca’s at about $1,900. But while off-the-rack suits usually top out around $3,000, there is virtually no limit to the cost of a bespoke, largely because there is no limit to what you can ask for. 

Ultimately, you are paying for the craftsmanship — and the exclusivity. Keep in mind that you are the only one walking around in that suit. Not only does it fit like a glove, it is the perfect reflection of the confident inner you that spent far too many years looking for a way out from under your no-vent Men’s Warehouse jacket. —Scott Edwards

DISTINCTLY SEO

The Princeton fashion designer unleashes a bespoke line for women.

Less than a year after opening his meticulously edited fashion boutique in the heart of downtown Princeton, Stephen Seo this fall is launching a women’s bespoke line to accompany his wildly well-received men’s collection. Seo views the new division of his brand, which is defined by high-quality, vibrant fabrics, colorful flourishes and influences from around the globe, as simply filling an obvious void. “Women spend a lot of money on designer ready-to-wear clothing and then always have it altered,” Seo says. The basic premise, he says, is to create individualized wardrobes — suits, shirts, dresses and evening gowns — through styles, fits and fabric that match the client’s desires from their inception. The foundation: Rare Italian silk fabrics cut from panels where patterns never repeat, creating the illusion of a seamless dress, such as the one to the left. The custom-tailored line is not exactly a dramatic departure for Seo, who’s been creating women’s clothing since opening his self-named shop last November. Those in the know have been pleading with Seo for more of his attention. Not one to deny a beautiful face — or a challenge — it was only a matter of time. That time has arrived. Stephen Seo, 63 Palmer Square West, Princeton, NJ; 609-924-6701; www.stephenseo.com. —Scott Edwards

REHAB FOR THE FASHION VICTIM

The first step is admitting you have a problem.

Within that deep, dark space known as your closet, your personality unfolds. For better or for worse, a big part of who you are is defined by what you wear. So every item in your closet, from the double-breasted power suit with the chunky shoulder pads leftover from the ‘80s to the searing hot pair of Manolo Blahnik’s that make your legs look supermodelesque, offers insight into the person you are. 

Take a peek inside. Do you like what you see? If you’re like most women, the answer is no, but largely because the image is complicated with pieces that once fit so perfectly — literally and figuratively — but now simply don’t.

That’s where Georgia Donovan, a.k.a. The Clothes Doctor, enters the picture. Her office is your closet. 

“I wanted to correct and diagnose women’s fashion mistakes. I wanted to help their fashion issues and angst,” says Donovan, who lives in Upper Black Eddy, of her motivation for entering this particular line of work. Her title encompasses several roles: style consultant, author and speaker.

Her clients are largely 40-and-older. In fashion, so much is driven by the youth-obsessed, which can leave most women on the outside looking in. Donovan, who describes her age as “over 35, but under 60,” provides a voice of reason. “Women think after 40, it’s over for them when it comes to fashion. They feel invisible,” she says. “Age makes no difference. There are people who look terrible in their twenties and smashing in their seventies.” Donovan embraces her age — whatever it may be — but only as far as her fashion sense is concerned, it seems.

Born in Brooklyn, Donovan spent her youth avidly scouting the latest fashions displayed along Fifth Avenue. After a stint as a makeup artist in London theater, she returned to New York. While she never directly worked in the fashion industry, Donovan says she culled her own style by remaining in tune with herself. You see, a fashionable woman is a confident woman, which is the mantra she tries to impress upon the fashion victims that come calling for her help.

Classic pieces comprise Donovan’s wardrobe, tweaked by accessories to reflect her mood of the day or even of the moment. It’s an ever-evolving process. -Gina Ryder

FOREVER FASHIONABLE

How to dress vintage and not look dated — or cheap. 

It started with an estate sale for Kimberlee Paige Hanson. Then came another, and another. As antiquing took over her life, she began selling to support her habit. “It’s an addiction,” says Hanson, who can be found hawking her wares in Palette, a consortium of five vintage dealers on Lambertville’s Bridge Street.

Like Hanson, many are hooked by vintage, the new black. Actually, the old black. The clothes originate from a certain era; the obsession begins decades later. 

The Vintage Fashion Guild (VFG), an international organization of vintage collectors and sellers, notes on its Web site that vintage touches inspire much of 2008’s fashions, marked by “bright, Crayola accessories; graceful, romantic shapes; brushstrokes of wild color prints; and classic schoolboy tailoring.” Philadelphia University professor Jane Likens, who has taught a course in costume history, says her current crop of students is donning 1970s- and 1980s-era cap sleeves and bold stripes plucked straight from their parents’ closets.

Buying vintage — described by Merriam Webster as period of origin or manufacture — has arguably become an art form popularized by a pantheon that includes everyone from celebrities like Demi Moore and Madonna to the stylish art student to seasoned collectors. 

If Likens’ pupils are any indication, the new generation of vintage hounds is savvy, researching histories, scouring thrift shops and even operating its own businesses. But what of the vintage virgin, far flung from the urban, eclectic circles that set the pace for the recycled scene?

Where to start | The good news? Vintage finds are waiting in places ranging from Goodwill to high-end auctions. In between, there’s an array of consignment boutiques, secondhand shops, chain stores like the hip Buffalo Exchange (215-557-9850; www.buffaloexchange.com), antique dealers, estate sales and even online thrift flippers like Craigslist and eBay. Nearby, amid the artistic jumble of furniture and décor, Palette (609-397-0101; www.palettevintage.com) has an assortment of purses and clothing and jewelry. Katy Kane Vintage & Couture Clothing is both an online and a brick-and-mortar purveyor of 20th-century clothing and accessories (Kane’s virtual store is www.katykane.com and her New Hope boutique, on Ferry Street, operates by appointment; 215-862-5873). Love Saves the Day (215-862-1399) is another New Hope mainstay.

Condition | Mint condition is a rarity, but items that are clean, odor-free and have repairable flaws — a rip at the seam, for instance — can be salvaged. Garments kept close to the original condition are far more valuable than altered items, Kane says. The VFG advises looking for textiles with strength and integrity. Likens says a good dry cleaner may be able to eliminate lingering scent, and a hole could be cleverly disguised with lace or appliqué.

Label | Labels are desirable and often indicative of quality. If searching for period pieces, keep in mind that store labels didn’t debut until the 1880s, notes the VFG. Quality clues of label-less garments include boned bodices, hand sewing, flat lining, bound buttonholes, handset zippers, covered buttons, piped seams, bias-bound edges, bound seam allowances and silk linings. Kane’s collection includes pieces ranging from a lame 1930s art deco dress to Italian silk peignoirs circa the 1970s, as well as designers Yves St. Laurent, Versace, Vivienne Westwood and Geoffrey Beane, to name a few.

Price | Price can be a gamble. Thrift shop trips can unearth hidden gems for dirt cheap, or can serve as a waste of time; seasoned dealers who research and preserve items are likely to offer a fair but pricey price. “Like with anything old, it’s buyer beware,” says Likens, while Kane assures that reputable dealers with a solid history are safe bets. 

The Look | While an element of vintage-only die hards exist, most experts would agree that tried and true moderation is key. “Don’t make a whole outfit out of vintage,” cautions Kane. Instead, she says, pair a 1950s skirt with a contemporary T-shirt and ballet flats to avoid a full on “costume” look. A final piece of advice, as versatile as a Chanel jacket, comes from the VFG: “Ask yourself what makes your heart sing … what appeals most to you.” - Aubrey Tait